"Hanfu fever" is a national trend. When more and more young people fall in love with traditional culture, it also glows with new brilliance. Have you ever seen a "clay figurine" printed in 3D? How can traditional culture be revitalized and innovated in the new era? In this issue of China Youth Talk, Yang Jianfei, the sixth generation descendant of clay figurine Zhang, Zhang Hao after 00, director of the Department of Cultural Industry Management of China Communication University and associate researcher, was invited to talk about the increasingly fashionable traditional culture.

Source: China Youth Daily client

1. "Against the Water"

At the end of the Northern Song Dynasty, a tragic night fall story unfolded in Sanqingshan area. This beautiful place is the headquarters of Zimen, located in the rich Jiangnan East Road. The founder of Zimen is the great Wei Qingqing. It deeply involves many elements such as river’s lake grievances, court disputes, gang vendettas, emotional entanglements, and various market situations, and vividly depicts a picture of life in the Northern Song Dynasty.

Now the quality of most games is almost the same, and the games recommended by many platforms are very similar. Although they are some mainstream games, they ignore the feelings and real needs of some players, and how to operate them is the key. Some game manufacturers will cooperate with major domestic platforms, such as the old driver base, dazzle-raccoon-tour-drama-official-net-. Give a start of 5000 and a real charge of more than 648 per day. This may be the ultimate experience that players want to have. However, the daily quota is limited, and those who are often short of games can use the case number-one-wipe-red-dust-come and try their luck.

2. "Egg Party"

In the game, players can become cute eggs and challenge various fantasy levels with friends; At the same time, you can also pick up various props in the scene to hinder the actions of other eggs. The game provides all kinds of interesting props, such as bombs, freezing, electric shocks and even farting. In addition, the game also provides an egg workshop, which allows players to use their imagination and create more interesting levels and props.

3. "Fantasy Westward Journey"

This game is a role-playing game. In the game, players can control different characters to fight and go through one level after another. There are many unknown levels in the game waiting for players to unlock. These levels are very exciting, and players can experience many simple and interesting ways to play.

4. The Master of Yin and Yang

Is a card game, players need to collect all kinds of monster cards, through training and matching, to create a strong lineup to meet various challenges. Each monster has unique skills and attributes, and players need to make reasonable choices according to the actual situation. In addition, "Master of Yin and Yang" is also a card-collecting game. Players need to gradually cultivate their own small gods and improve their level and combat effectiveness. In the game, players need to use strategies to choose the right cards and gods in order to win in the battle.

5. The Fifth Personality

Players will play detective Orpheus. After receiving a mysterious entrustment letter, they will step into the notorious manor and uncover the truth of a missing case. In the process of searching for evidence, Orpheus, played by the player, will use deductive method to deeply analyze the case. In the case review session, players can choose to play the role of supervisor or survivor and launch a fierce confrontation. However, with the deepening of the investigation, when the truth gradually surfaced, it revealed more and more incredible facts.

6. "Ghost Story"

It is a real-time role-playing game developed by Netease Thunder Fire Studio. This game was officially opened for public beta on May 19th, 2016. The script of the game is adapted from the story of Nie Xiaoqian in Strange Tales from a Lonely Studio. In the game, in the late Ming dynasty, all beings suffered and the world fell into chaos, which originated from the awakening of Pangu Yuanshen. Only by rediscovering and sealing the Yuan Shen Zhu can we calm this storm.

7. Light Encounter

Light Encounter is a unique social adventure game. The game has unique settings, warm style and pleasant plot. In the game, players can enjoy different scenery and be free to explore and take risks. Although the game has no dialogue, it can be deeply rooted in people’s hearts and arouse the resonance of players. Players can join hands with their friends to complete the cloud adventure and enjoy the free and warm journey in the cloud.

8. Battle for Peace in Beijing

The decisive battle of Ping An Jing is a non-attached competitive MOBA mobile game launched by Netease. This game has unique skill setting and rich tactical play, so that players can experience the lovely and efficient collocation of Yin and Yang and the fun of free collocation. In addition, the game also incorporates the elements of Netease’s exclusive IP "Yin Yang Shi", bringing more freshness and benefits to players. The launch of Ping An Jing, the decisive battle, provided players with a richer and more varied game experience and was warmly welcomed by the majority of players.

9. "A Dream of Rivers and Lakes"

Recommend a Netease game: A Dream of Rivers and Lakes. This beautiful role-playing game adopts the beautiful picture texture of the national style. In the game, you can experience the life of rivers and lakes with pleasure and enmity, and have a drink with heroes from all walks of life. The characters in the game are rich and colorful, with both the demeanor of a late-life hero and the heroic attitude of a young knight. If you love the beautiful painting style and martial arts theme of mobile games, then "A Dream of Rivers and Lakes" will definitely bring you a unique game experience.

10. Forgotten Sichuan Scenery Record

Netease games strongly recommend "Forgotten Sichuan Scenery", which is a mobile game with unique national charm and leads people to explore the heyday of historical celebrities. In the game, excellent games continue to be exported, and they have achieved great success in overseas markets recently. Role-playing is unique, the characters are lifelike, and the costumes are meticulous. The plot is rich and full, which makes people indulge in forgetting Sichuan and appreciate the elegance of historical celebrities and the stories behind them.

How long has it been since you went to the beauty shop?

Li Si (a pseudonym), a white-collar worker in Shenzhen, was once the "iron powder" of the beauty collection shop. In the first two years when the beauty collection shop was the hottest, she went to the first colorist in Shenzhen with her friends to try on lipstick, punch in and take photos, and often visited chain brand stores like KKV and Jinliang Life.

"In the past two years, I really liked to visit Jinliang Life. It has a complete range of cosmeceuticals, and the decoration style is also my favorite ins style. There is also a tea partition, so I can have a rest when I am tired. But when I go again this year, I feel that skin care samples are not as many brands as before, and there are almost no people in the store. " Li Si said bluntly.

The depression of stores is not groundless. Recently, Jinliang Life announced that it will close all offline stores before December 31, 2022, focusing on online business. According to the notification letter provided by the online transmission supplier, Jinliang Life blamed the decision to close the store on the continuous impact of the epidemic.

It is reported that Jinliang Life is a beauty collection store brand founded by Steady Medical in 2019, with more than 2,000 products on the store shelves, covering skin care, make-up, fragrance, personal care, home cleaning and other categories. By the end of 2021, Jinliang lived in 10 stores all over the country.

The retreat of Jinliang’s life is just the epitome of the collective "flameout" of beauty collection stores. Since last year, the new beauty collection stores such as THECOLORIST Colorist, HAYDON Black Hole and KKV have closed down one after another to varying degrees, while the traditional head beauty collection stores Sasha, Watsons and Zhuo Yue have also suffered from sluggish performance and are deeply mired in business bottlenecks.

Can the wind of the beauty collection shop still blow?

The beauty cosmetics collection shop has a hard time.

Looking back on the past, the new and old beauty collection stores were once bustling and brilliant.

In 2019, the new beauty collection store quickly became popular with its high value, low price and complete categories, and brands such as HAYDON Black Hole, WOW COLOUR and Colorist set off a wave of queuing and punching. As early as the golden age of free travel in Hong Kong more than ten years ago, Zhuo Yue, Sasha and Watsons were important places for countless tour groups, purchasing agents and young consumers to buy cosmeceuticals.

Nowadays, the beauty collection store is undergoing a crisis of survival and closing the store again and again.

In May of this year, HAYDON Black Hole closed three stores successively; The number of WOW COLOUR stores has also been reduced from more than 300 at the peak to more than 100 today, and the number of stores has been folded.

In addition, KKV and colorist THE COLORIST continue to close stores. In the first half of 2021 alone, KKV has closed 44 franchisees, while THE COLORIST has closed 59 franchisees. According to the reporter of Time Weekly, THE COLORIST has three stores in Guangzhou, and the Wanlinghui store has been closed before.

On the other hand, Watsons, Salsa, Zhuo Yue and other traditional beauty collection stores can’t escape the fate of a sharp drop in performance.

According to the financial report for the first half of 2022, Watson’s China market sales were 9.685 billion Hong Kong dollars, down 17% year-on-year; Earnings before interest and tax achieved HK$ 623 million, down 60% year-on-year.

According to the financial report, in the six months to September 30, 2022, Sasha International’s turnover reached HK$ 1.55 billion, down 2.9% year-on-year, with a loss of HK$ 133 million during the period. Among them, the retail sales in mainland China dropped by 13.1% to HK$ 120 million.

In the financial report, Sasha attributed the decline in performance in China to the loss of stores, pointing out that during the reporting period, despite the closure of stores that recorded losses during the reporting period and efforts to reduce operating costs, the business in China was still dragged down, and the loss increased by 5.1% year-on-year to HK$ 44 million.

In terms of the number of stores, the number of Watsons stores decreased by 124 in the first half of this year. As of September 30, 2022, the total number of international retail stores in Shasha has decreased from 234 to 193, with the largest number of stores closed in mainland China, with 35 stores reduced and 42 remaining.

In addition to the decline in performance, stores are closed, and more traditional beauty collection stores are facing bankruptcy.

In April this year, Zhuo Yue released its annual report for fiscal year 2021, showing that the company achieved operating income of HK$ 627 million, up by 16.37% year-on-year, and the net loss attributable to the parent company was HK$ 208 million, down by 18.63% year-on-year. In June this year, Zhuo Yue officially announced the suspension of trading on the Hong Kong Stock Exchange; In September, Ye Junheng, the founder of Zhuo Yue, and his wife and son were also filed for bankruptcy by Fuying Co., Ltd., a subsidiary of Hongan Group.

The guest bill rate is worrying

The life of beauty collection stores is not easy, which is not unrelated to the "shrinking" of the domestic beauty retail market.

Statistics from the National Bureau of Statistics show that the total retail sales of cosmetics from January to October this year was 308.4 billion yuan, down 2.8% year-on-year. Since the beginning of this year, the growth rate of total retail sales of cosmetics has been maintained at the lowest level in five years, and it has been declining for three consecutive months. This kind of pressure from retail terminals has become one of the "straws" to crush beauty collection stores.

Affected by the epidemic situation, the downward trend of offline consumption, changes in shopping channels and other factors, the passenger flow of beauty collection stores has been greatly reduced, and the conversion rate of customer orders has been further reduced. Making ends meet is also the cause of a large number of closure of beauty collection stores.

Yang Ping (pseudonym) has worked in Shasha for many years, and is currently engaged in sales planning in a new beauty collection store enterprise. She told the Times Weekly reporter that in the past, the problem of low conversion rate of beauty collection stores mainly existed in new beauty collection stores. Traditional beauty collection stores had a certain customer base and were still "able to withstand", but with the emergence of a large number of social platforms such as Xiaohongshu and domain bloggers in the past two years, and the rise of live broadcasts and short-sighted band goods, new and old beauty collection stores were separated by more than half of the customer lists online.

According to the data of Ai Media Consulting, the market size of China cosmetics industry will reach 455.3 billion yuan in 2021, and it is estimated that the market size of China cosmetics industry will reach 516.9 billion yuan in 2023. According to the survey data of Ai Media Consulting, 72.6% of consumers will buy cosmetics on the integrated e-commerce platform, and e-commerce will continue to be the main channel of major brands.

On the other hand, the homogeneity of the products sold and the lack of brand characteristics have also led to the collective "running" of beauty collection stores.

"Beauty collection stores like Sasha and Zhuo Yue mainly sell Japanese, Korean and European makeup. Compared with them, new beauty collection stores have more domestic brands of makeup. But even so, there are still too many identical products, and consumers are prone to aesthetic fatigue. There is no way to effectively stimulate consumption just by engaging in promotional offers. " Yang Ping explained.

Bai Yunhu, an expert in beauty management, said that there are some shortcomings in the "people’s goods yard" of today’s beauty offline collection stores, and there are still many problems in cultivating consumers’ minds, supply chain management and offline store scene design.

Beauty collection stores are collectively saving themselves.

HARMAY Huamei enhances its competitiveness by introducing new domestic brands such as Rose Manor, ChunShan Chunshan and East Beast from ANN’S ROSARY. WOW COLOUR will expand the diverse categories such as cosmetics, perfume, aromatherapy and toiletries on the basis of makeup and skin care, trying to open up the brand beauty product matrix; Watsons has continuously adjusted its store opening strategy, combined online shopping malls with offline stores, and started the O2O retail model by developing online operating tools such as WeChat official account, applets, and communities.

From the perspective of the industry as a whole, the beauty market still has room for improvement, and the beauty collection store is not desperate. In the face of the current predicament, how to regain the favor of consumers is the fundamental problem that beauty collection stores need to think carefully. (Time Weekly)